Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

16 October 2010

They say all good things come to an end, so our week in Puerto Vallarta was over. After breakfast, cleaning, and final packing, we called for our “inspection” of the room. With that taken care of, we headed to the lobby to check out. They had warned us it would be very crowded, but it wasn’t. We stored our luggage and headed out one more time, to the north toward the marina. It was too early and almost nothing was open and the sun was already hot. That led us to the Starbucks so we could check email and do a couple of other computer things in air conditioned space.

One last public transit bus ride took us back to Los Tules and the shopping center across the street. For lunch we went to Las Gorditas, making our last meal in PV the same place as our first one. Again, they were very good.

From the hotel, one more taxi ride to the airport got us on our way home. We had plenty of time, and picked up some snacks for the plane since there were no upgrades available

The flight to LA was smooth and uneventful. Since there is construction in the International Terminal at LAX, we had to take a bus from the plane to the terminal, a minor hassle. We had a long enough layover that there was no problem, and going through customs was the usual breeze.

The flight from LAX to PDX was also smooth and uneventful, as flights should be. It was raining lightly in LA when we left, and clear in Portland when we got here. After retrieving our luggage and a taxi ride home, another adventure was completed.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

15 October 2010

There was really nothing on the schedule for today, so it was once again a lazy morning. We headed for the pools. We’ve never spent so much time in swimming pools in a week before. It was relaxing and a little exercise.

After our last lunch in our room, we headed out for one more ride on the public transit to down town. Our goal was art galleries, with the possibility of adding to our Nativity collection. Stopping in a few stores, we did see some that were interesting, and not outrageously expensive. After wandering some more, even in the Mercado, where they all looked like they came from the same place, though hand painted, we stopped at Peyote People, a store that specializes in native art from indigenous peoples of Mexico.

We had shopped there when we were here on a cruise a few years ago, and had bought a couple of Huichol (we-chol) pieces. The proprietor even puts together Nativities from their work. This time, we bought a piece from the Tarahumara and from ______. They make good additions to our collection.

Since it was too early for dinner after our successful shopping, we wandered back to the Malecon, and stopped at Starbucks (in contrast to the native art). The restaurant we planned to go to didn’t open until 6. So about 6 we wandered up the hill to Arrayan, a relatively new restaurant with an open courtyard on the first floor. Once again, the food was excellent, and not touristy.

As we headed back to the main street to catch the bus, we noticed it was almost sunset. So we once again headed for the Malecon for one last PV sunset. It was a good one. Then we caught the bus out to our hotel. We arrived there in time for one more dip in the pool before packing for the trip home.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

14 October 2010

Today we were scheduled for a half-day city and jungle tour. Since our reservation had come from a time share presentation bonus, and not regular booking, the details were not clear. With the help of the concierge, we tracked down the right group, and joined a small tour, led by a man who had not taken us when he first saw our ticket. The evils of irregular scheduling!

This tour only had six people including us. We think there maybe were to be some more, but they didn’t show up for the bus.

The tour headed down town for a quick tour along the Malecon. At one point, a group of native dancers were doing a dance, which is swinging from a tall pole by their ankles, as another person plays a flute. They do this several times a day. I guess you have to see it, since it’s hard to describe.

From there we walked through the square to the cathedral, Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. After a several block walk, we came to a jewelry store, which is the sort of requisite stop for these things. They specialize in Mexican fire opals. Nice, but . . .

When it was time to continue the tour, we were sent to join another tour group, from another company, because our bus was having mechanical problems. At least that was the story. It may have just been more economical for them. With that group we headed south out of town for the jungle part of the tour, and a visit to a tequila factory. We drove several miles through the southern part of PV, past El Arcos and dozens of hotels. The highway turns from the coast and heads into the mountains, for the jungle part of the tour with no specific mention from the guide. But it was obviously that sort of vegetation.

Our next stop was the tequila factory, Las Juntas y Los Veranos in Cabo Correntes ,where we got a full explanatory tour of the process, and some serious tequila tasking. Of course, there was the opportunity to buy some. We bought a bottle of Dona Chanita Licor de Café, with a hint of chocolate.

Lunch was served at the restaurant at the factory, with a number of very good choices. We opted for the shrimps, prepared five different ways, all delicious. But no tequila with lunch.

On the way back into town, we stopped briefly at Chico’s, a restaurant on a river, where divers dive from the rocks into the rushing cataracts. The one we saw, did it blindfolded.

From there it was back into town. We were dropped off across the street from Los Tules. The bus continued to take the rest of the people back to their hotels. When we got off the bus, and it had pulled away, we realized we didn’t have the bottle of tequila we had bought. Fortunately, the concierge at Los Tules was able to contact the tour group, and they brought it back to us. As Dick had discussed with the concierge, miracles do happen.

That tour lasted considerably longer than we expected, so back at Los Tules, it was a quiet, relaxing evening.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

13 October 2010

This was an early morning, as we needed to be at the other side of the Marina to catch our tour to San Sebastian. This is a small sleepy village of about 600 inhabitants in the Sierra Madre mountains. We once again relied on the public bus line to get us there. Our only problem was we walked on the other side of the street from the Vallarta Adventures office, walked past it and had to find our way back. But we had plenty of time.

Our tour guide, Gustavo, regaled us with stories and good information for the entire 1½ hour trip up into the mountains. We passed from the coast, up through jungle, to a mixed pine forest at the top, nearly 6,000 feet in elevation.

At its height, San Sebastian had as many as 30,000 inhabitants working the silver and gold mines. As often happened, those played out and the town nearly disappeared. It has now actually started to grow again, but hopefully not too much or too fast.

Our fist stop was at an hacienda which is well preserved, and now is a small, three room hotel. The furnishings and décor are very interesting. Into town, the next stop was Café de Altura, a family coffee plantation, owned and operated by the Alvarado family for several generations, some of whom we met. Our tour of the plantation gave us a good introduction to the coffee growing and roasting process. This is truly mountain and shade grown organic coffee—always has been and always will be. We bought some coffee from the patriarch of the family.

We then walked further into the town to Comedor La Lupita, a family run restaurant. There was another tour group there, too, which filled the restaurant between us. In fact, we had to sit at a side table because there was not enough room at the main table for our group.

The meal was several courses of “home made” delicious food, starting with a quesadilla. We were then served rice and refried beans. The beans were not like any we had had before, and were very good, probably at least in part because they were made with lard, and not canola. A beef jerky taco and chicken mole, both of which were excellent, completed the meal.

During our meal, the family children came home from school, a good sign of its authenticity. During our lunch, we also were treated to a fairly strong thunderstorm. The rain continued as we left to tour the rest of the town

The next stop on the tour was the town square, with its shops around the edge, and the requisite band stand. We visited the old one cell jail behind the town hall. One of the oldest buildings on the square is now a hotel.

A short block away is the village church, San Sebastian, built in the 18^th century. We had a few minutes after that to continue to wander the town. Karen found a silversmith, and bought a pendant cross. Dick looked for some other art, but couldn’t find anything open with the right kind of art. (We’re still trying to augment the nativity set collection.)

The trip back to PV was uneventful down out of the mountains. We found a coffee shop at the marina, The Coffee Cup, and had a drink and checked email on Karen’s iPod. The public bus ride back to Los Tules completed a very good day.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

12 October 2010

Another lazy morning in PV! Sleep a bit late, a leisurely breakfast, reading overlooking the ocean, and a dip or two in the pool. Then a quiet lunch, another dip, and then got ready for the day’s adventure: The Rhythms of the Night.

We once again rode the city bus, this time out to the Marina. We had been told the boat left at 6:30, so we left in plenty of time to be there before six. It didn’t take long on the bus, even though we overshot the marina and had to walk back several blocks. And then found the tour didn’t actually leave till 7:00. But that’s better than being late or rushing too much.

The trip started with the boat ride south of town to Las Caletas, the former estate of John Huston, which still has no electric power lines to it. They do have electricity for their show, either from generators or batteries. All the other light is from torches and candles. The boat ride over included appetizers and an open bar, although the margaritas were fairly weak.

The show is a music and dance presentation based loosely on Aztec motifs. Lots of drums and lots of torches. It was a very interesting show.

After the show they served dinner, a buffet that included many choices: salads, vegetables, pastas, potatoes, and at least three types of meet, plus a dessert table. It was all quite good. This is an all-inclusive event, so there was also an open bar, or rather open bar service. That meant Dick could finish the meal with a good shot of tequila.

After a smooth boat ride back to the marina, we took a taxi back to Los Tules, shared with several others, as it was late enough that the busses were no longer running.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

11 October 2010

It was a lazy morning, as vacations should be. We took a walk to explore a bit more of the beach next to the resort, and took a morning swim after a breakfast of coffee and Mexican pastries. (You have to understand that “swim” is sort of a generic term for us.)

We then went local by taking the city bus to the old town area. That was an interesting experience, but well worth it and much cheaper fare than a taxi. By the time we got to Centro, it was getting pretty hot. So we walked on the shady side of the street when possible. We walked along the Malecon most of the way through the old city. Of course, there is much new here as well on this main drag, mostly catering to tourists and cruise ship passengers. But a block or two off is still very old Mexico looking.

We stopped at the Starbucks for an ice tea and free WiFi. Then headed back north past the cathedral toward our lunch/dinner destination. Unfortunately when we found it, they are only open for dinner. Maybe we’ll go back later in the week. So we went to Pipi’s, a Mexican restaurant with lots of recommendations. The fajitas were great, and the margaritas huge. It was a two-meal day.

After eating, we headed south again, across the river as far as Daiquiri Dick’s, where we had eaten when we were here on a cruise a few years ago. Did not eat this time, and then headed up along the river through the market area. Heading back toward Centro, we walked trough the Mercado and bought a set of margarita glasses. Our last stop was back a Starbucks for another ice tea, and a couple of PV mugs. We walked back along the Malecon, and then caught a bus back to Los Tules. Once again, we were the only gringos on the bus.

We took another pool dip, this time in a different pool at the resort. Dick again tried the surf briefly. From the pool we watched the sunset, until Dick ran back to the room to get a camera. We documented another beautiful sunset, as a relaxing finish to a good day.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

10 October 2010

This morning was our “free” breakfast and “tour.” We met the taxi across the street from Los Tules for the ride to the other place. We did get breakfast, which was quite good. However the tour and sales pitch took more time than we had planned (of course), and, in fact, we had to say “no” to four different people to get our promised premiums: a couple of local tours, and a bottle of tequila. And we came out with lots of practice at saying “no” to all the other salesmen we are meeting.

The rest of the day was very relaxing. We stayed at our resort except for another foray to go shopping at the same store as yesterday. It is sort of like an overgrown Fred Meyer one-stop shopping center, with groceries, clothing, household, appliances, and just about everything else you might need. (By the way, we did see a sign for the PV Costco in the airport, but will probably not get out there.)

Since our room is very close to one of the eight pools here, we did try it out. Dick even went to the beach, where the water was almost as warm as the pool, but with a much less smooth surface, of course. And since it’s on a bay, not much surf. The pools are a bit warmer and safer feeling.

An added bonus in the evening was a couple of brief sets of fireworks. We don’t know who set them off, or why, but we enjoyed them.