Israel / Palestine, Satruday, 26 February

Today we headed south through the Jordan Valley. This is the Judean Wilderness, and is mostly quite barren territory. The hills are very interesting, and there are some green spots at Israeli farms and settlements in the Palestinian Territories.

Herod's Palace. They were excavating
when we were here a few years ago.

Our first destination, and the farthest south we went, was Masada. This is a very interesting hilltop fortress and palace orginally built by Herod. It is amazing for all the amenities it has on top of a free-standing 1300 foot high mountain. After Herod's death, it became a last stand site for Jewish Zealots after the destruction of Jerusalem in 70 AD. It fell to the Romans in 73, and except for a few monks in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, has remained an unoccupide ruin since.

Karen on top of Masada

Beginning the return north, we stopped at Ein Gedi for lunch and a float in the Dead Sea. Dick did a repeat float, and found it just as interesting as the first time several years ago. In the picture are Arlice, Dan, and Miriam, three of the five of us who floated.

View across the Dead Sea from
Qumran to Mt Nebo in Jordan

Continuing north, our next stop was at Qumran, the site of the Dead Sea Scrolls discovery. Our guide, Naim, gave us a very complete account of the discovery, as he had participated in some of the work. It was very interesting to hear some "first person" stories.

On the way back into Jerusalem and Bethlehem, we stopped at a roadside market so some members of our group could ride a camel. It was a very brief ride, but they all seemed to enjoy the experience.

Our last stop was in Beit Sahour for some shopping. Dick could not resist adding to our Nativity collection with another one carved from an olive tree large branch. Karen also made a purchase, a pair of Eilat stone earrings to go with her Jerusalem cross. Then it was back to the guesthouse in Bethlehem for dinner and another night.

Israel / Palestine, Friday, February 25

The Cardo in Bet She'an

The tel at Bet She'an

In Bet She'an

This morning we left St. Margaret's Guesthouse in Nazareth where we have stayed the last two nights. It was originally built as a monastery and is a beautiful building. We drove to Bet She'an, an excellent example of a Roman city. The site was occupied since about 3000 BC, and the tel is quite high. What remains today is the ruins of the Roman city destroyed in 79 AD by an earthquake. There were many areas to esplore including the cardo and large theater. Dick climbed the steps to the top of the tel for a view over the Roman ruins and east into Jordan.

Farmland in the Jordan Valley

As we drove to Jericho, we watched the landscape become much more barren, had the hills of the Judean wilderness off to the right and the "no man's land" toward the border with Jordan off to the left. Many vegetables and fruit are grown in this area. After lunch in Jericho we explored the tel. There are many layers as this area has been inhabited for about 10,000 years.

St George's Monastery

As we headed to Jerusalem we took a short side trip to view St. George Monastery. It is built in the side of a cliff and is quite a spectacular site. As we went "up to Jerusalem" we drove through the Palestinian section of Bethany, quite a drepressed area. Next we arrived at the Mount of Olives for our first view of Old Jerusalem. It was cold and windy here, a big change from the "sunny and seventy" weather we have been experiencing. As we approached Bethlehem we passed through the checkpoint into the city. We are now behind the separation wall. We will stay at the guesthouse at Christmas Lutheran Church in Bethlehem for the next four nights.

Isreal / Palestine Thursday, 24 February

at the Sea of Galilee

Along the shore of the Sea of Galilee

Today we continued our exploration of the Galilee. After driving to the Sea of Galilee from Nazareth, our first stops were near the northeast corner of the lake. Here are places dedicated to three events of Christ's ministry in the area. By the way, is it a sea or a lake? It's other names are Lake Tiberius or Lake Kinneret. It's either a big lake or a small sea. It was hazy and overcast when we arrived and did not completely clear off during the day .

Our first stop was the Mount of Beatitudes, or the Sermon on the Mount site. Next we stopped at the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes. And finally the Church of the Primacy of Saint Peter. None of them can be confirmed as authentic, but are good commemorations of those events in Christ's life.

Lunch of Sea of Galilee Talapia

First Century foundation under
Second Century wall of synagogue

Reconstruction of Second Century Synagogue

We stopped for lunch at a lakeside restaurant where we ate on the patio overlooking to lake. We had typical middle eastern salads and talapia caught in the Sea of Galilee. It was fried and served whole, head, skin, fins, and tail still all there. That made it a bit of work to eat, but it was very good.

After lunch we proceeded to Capernaum. Here there is a partially reconstructed second century synagogue with the foundations of a first century synagogue under it. The structure of the building can be fairly clearly seen and is very interesting. Also in the town is St Peter's house, which has had four octagonal churches built over it over the centuries. Only some foundational stonework remains of the house. The rest of the town is filled with all the foundations of houses and other buildings. One can clearly see what the town was like, as well as the floor plans of the houses. It was a very interesting visit.

The First Century "Jesus Boat"

We continued around the north end and east side of the lake. When we reached the southwest corner, we stopped at the "new" baptismal sight. Since the more probably authentic sight of Jesus baptism by John happened far to the south now in the Palestinian Territories, this one was set up for people who want to be Baptized in the Jordan River in Israel. I will make no further comment.

From there we continued up the western side of the lake to Tiberias and on to Kibbutz Ginosar. In 1986 a wooden boat was discovered in the mud at the sea shore. It was very carefully extricated from the mud and is now on display in a preserved state. Carbon dating placed the boat in the first century, making it an authentic example of the kind of boat used by Jesus and his disciples. It is very interesting.

Fishing in the Sea of Galilee

Our last outing was a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee. It was a wooden excursion boat made in the manner of the one found from the first century. The water was very calm and smooth, making for a relaxing boat ride.

Israel / Palestine Wednesday, 23 February

Last dip in the Mediterranean 

After breakfast this morning we took one final walk on the beach by the Mediterranean Sea. The day was clear and sunny and we found a few new views from in front of our hotel. It was then time to load the bus and be on our way up the coast.

The Roman Aqueduct at Ceasarea

Our first stop was Cesarea, once the Roman capital of Palestine. It is large enough that we stopped in three different areas, moving by bus between areas. First was the area of the Roman theatre which has been reconstructed enough to have concerts and programs in it. Nearby was also a hippodrome. As other places, Herod had a couple of palaces here. Our final stop in Cesarea was at the north end of the area at the Roman aqueduct, which has been partially reconstructed. Karen took one last opportunity to dip her feet in the Mediterranean.

Continuing up the coast of the Mediterranean, we next visited Haifa and Mt. Carmel. Everything related to Biblical history has been long replaced here. On top is the Baha'i Temple and Gardens. It was a brief stop to enjoy the gardens from the road.
We went on to Megiddo (or Armageddon, or Solomon's stables). We explored the tell, which contains several layers of civilizations, ending with Solomon's work. This was a staging area and stables for King Solomon and has a fair amount of recognizable features. After touring the tell, we had lunch at the site.

An olive press at Nazareth Village

Our final destination for the day was Nazareth, the home of the Holy Family and our overnight lodging. We first stopped at Nazareth Village, a reconstruction of the town as it was in the First century. It was an interesting and informative tour of life two thousand years ago. Next we went to the Church of the Annunciation, the third church built over the site of the house where Gabriel announced to the Virgin Mary that she would be the mother of Jesus. There was a Mass going on in English, which precluded our going to the altar area to see the cave which was probably the homes in which Mary grew up. However, that led to a wonderful alternative.

OT era pottery 

Our guide, Naim, had arranged for a gentleman from the church to show us their small museum and a better example of a first century house under the present church. The museum area included several very interesting pieces ranging from column capitols that had never been installed in the Byzantine era, to pottery pieces that were from about 1500BC, all discovered at the church site. We then were taken to a first century house under the church--not Mary's, but very similar and "next door." It contained a living/sleeping area, and a second room for the kitchen and animals. Apparently this or a tent was what nearly everyone in that era had for a home. It is a good possible explanation for many homes of the time, including Jesus's birthplace in Bethlehem. It was a very informative and fascinating finish to the afternoon's touring.

The First Century house under the Church of the Annunciation 

From there we drove through Nazareth to St Margaret's Guesthouse for the evening and overnight. Dinner was very good (not a buffet) and we will be here two nights.

Israel & Palestine, Tuesday, 22 February

Long layover in Newark

The first day + on the trip to Israel. It's a long flight to Tel Aviv through Newark (with a seven hour layover) which took about 24 hours overnight. We arrived about 4pm and met our guide after almost an hour getting through immigration and getting our luggage. We got on the bus, and drove through rush hour traffic to Netanya. Our hotel overlooks the Mediterranean Sea and we can hear the surf from our room.

A dip in the Mediterranean

After dinner, a typical middle eastern buffet, we took a walk with a couple others from the tour. We walked down to the beach and got our feet wet in the Mediterranean. We then walked to a business area and stopped at an Israeli-Italian-French restaurant for a bottle of local wine. It was from the Golan area and I think a Cabernet--not that we could read the label in Hebrew. It was a good one.

We then walked back to the hotel where a couple people were out yet. Now it's time for bed after skipping last night. OK, we slept a little on the plane, but . . . We need to be rested for Caesarea, Nazareth and other Galilee Points.

Local wine with Dan and Arlice

Israel / Palestine

We are sitting at PDX awaiting our Flight to Newark to begin this adventure. After a fairly long layover, we will be off to Tel Aviv, arriving tomorrow afternoon local time. We are on a tour led by Mark and Miriam Hoelter, and with several other friends. Off on another adventure!

Palestine & Israel 2011

Tomorrow morning we head out once more to the Middle East. We are returning to Israel so we can see the Galilee this time, and spend more time in Bethlehem at the Lutheran Guest House at Christmas Lutheran Church. We pray for a safe trip, and the neighbors behave themselves and don't start fighting. We will try to keep this up as we go.