African Adventure IV

Monday, 16 February 2009

Today we headed north towards Etosha National Park in northern Namibia.  It is a very large park around the Etosha Pan, a dry lake bed and the surrounding water holes, that is home to many African game animals. 

Our first stop was in Okahandja, a town about 70 kilometers north of Windhoek. This is the site of a very large wood carvers market. We also were introduced to a local delicacy, biltong, at Closwa Biltong. It is much better than jerky, and comes in a number of flavors. 

The wood carvers market is a series of many stalls, each filled with carved animals and other artifacts, mostly from the Kavongo region of NE Namibia. We had seen some at the Craft Center in Windhoek, but this is closer to the source. I don't think all the sellers were also carvers, but it at least seems more direct with the carvers. The variety is tremendous. We came away with a collection of animals: giraffe, zebra, lion, hippo, rhino, and elephant. I hope we got good bargains, since it is expected that you bargain and don't simply pay the first asking price, which is usually fairly high. Tim & Venessa did some of the bargaining with barter, trading t-shirts and other items for goods along with some cash. We were the only customers at the time, so we got lots of attention, even though we didn't walk through the whole market. 

As we left town after the biltong stop, we saw another wood carvers market, not quite as big. You can find all these carvings at shops in the cities and towns as well. 

We stopped for the night in Otavi at the Palmenecke Guesthouse. Hotels and meals are very inexpensive by US standards. And the dinner was excellent, done by the lady of the house as chef. We even got one of her recipes. The husband is bartender and host. The rooms were also very nice, and breakfast was included. 

When we arrived at Otavi, Tim took us out to Laurent's winery while Abigael and Lillian enjoyed the very small swimming pool at the guesthouse. Laurent is a friend who works at the Polytechnic in Windhoek, grew up on a chateau in France, and wants to make wine. So he and a friend have started a winery near Otavi (about five hours north of Windhoek). They are now working on their third harvest. It was very interesting to see a start up winery and meet the resident crew. And the puppy, Gifty.

African Adventure III

Sunday, 15 February 2009

This was a day for getting oriented and acquainted with Windhoek. We went to a nearby shopping mall to buy a cell phone for use in Africa. (I had brought a global phone from home, this one was cheap and better for someone to call from Namibia and South Africa.) We got introduced to some local shops and food items. All very good. Of course, to some extent at least, a shopping mall is a shopping mall. At least there are no Starbucks, very few McDonald's, and only one KFC. Local is better!

Tim, Abigael, and we visited the National Museum of History. Unfortunately, not much time, so we only saw part of it. It is located very close to "the most famous building in Namibia," Christ Church, a big German Lutheran church in the center of the city. It is a very prominent building.

Summer is the wet season in Namibia (except in the deserts along the coast), so it rained a lot, everyday. Mostly passing storms, but very strong storms. Lots of lightning and thunder, and heavy rains. Sometimes more extended.

We took Tim (and the family) out to Joe's Bierhaus for dinner for his birthday (a couple weeks late). The rain was heavy enough to cause us trouble getting there. At least twice, we had to turn around and find another route because of flooded streets. It looked like a river running across the streets, flash flood like.

We decided to eat inside, rather than on the patio, in deference to more rain possibly coming. It's a very interesting place with the usual sort of collection of miscellaneous junk on the walls and hanging from the ceiling. The food was very good. We tried things one can't get in the states, mostly African game (although my skewer did have a piece of chicken on it, amongst the gemsbok, springbok, crocodile, and the like).

This was also our first encounter with southern African style of paying for parking. You don't put money in a meter, but in the hands of a "car guard." Both on the street and in most parking lots. They "guarantee" your car will be safe and there when you return. In return you give them N$2-4. That's their livelihood. We found them almost everywhere in both Namibia and South Africa.

The return home was easier since the rains had mostly stopped, and the floods had somewhat subsided. Altogether a very interesting and fun first full day in Namibia.

African Adventure II

Saturday, 14 February 2009

We were picked up fairly early by Trevor (Glenn's main driver) for the ride back to the airport. He had been told he was picking up the Wryes, but was surprised that it wasn't Tim and family. So now he met more Wryes.

We had a South African Express flight from Cape Town to Windhoek. It reminded me of Horizon Air: small plane (CRJ), good service including wine, short flight. At least it seemed short after the previous couple of days.

The flight to Windhoek was interesting, watching the desert landscape go by. We saw the Orange River (the Namibia-South Africa border), Fish River Canyon (like the Grand Canyon), and other interesting formations. 

When we landed at the Windhoek airport, Hosea Kutako International Airport, we couldn't see the city. It's about 35 kilometers out of town in the bush. After going through immigration (a minor hassle) and customs (no hassle—just don't declare anything), we were met by Tim & Venessa and Abigael & Lillian. It was great to see them. We got our hired car (they drive on the left) and followed them into town to the house where we all stayed. The Polytechnic of Namibia furnished Tim with a four-bedroom house, so we were able to stay with them. It was very nice, though in a locked compound with 24-hour security guards. (Refer to Tim's "plethora of keys" on Flickr.)

It was a quiet, relaxing evening at home; at least as quiet and relaxing as possible with a five and a two year old. Our second night in Africa, and first in Namibia.

African Adventure I

Thursday-Friday, 12-13 February 2009

I have never been on an airplane for 18 hours before. And that was after the 6 hour flight from Portland to New York. So after more than 24 hours in airplanes and airports, we were in Cape Town, South Africa! As we approached Cape Town, the pilot announced that since it was the one-year anniversary of Delta's flying in to Cape Town, the control tower had given us permission to circle the city on a bright, clear day. And we were on the right side of the plane to see the beautiful city surrounding Table Mountain, which is right in the middle of town. We learned it really was a special landing approach from people around us who flew in to Cape Town somewhat regularly and said that had never happened before (and may not happen again). 

We were met at the airport by Glenn, who owns a shuttle service, and who drove us in his Mercedes to St James on False Bay, where we stayed the night in the guesthouse of Seamus & Carol. (Glenn at one time was the South African Ambassador to Italy. We got winery recommendations from him.) Seamus has been to our house on a visit to the states, and has worked with Tim through Highline. He cooked us dinner in his Potjie, a traditional South African pot for cooking over an open or charcoal fire. It was wonderful! (BTW, that's pronounced "poi-khie"). 

After several glasses of very good South African wine, we retired to the guesthouse, a 19th (I think) century house, one of the first in St James. 

Off to Africa!

I'm all packed. I think all the projects and necessary items are taken care of. Now to get a little sleep in my own bed before we catch a 6:30 Am flight from PDX to JFK. Then a 16+ our flight to Cape Town, South Africa by way of Dakar, Senegal. I hear we won't be able to get off the plane in Dakar, even with about a 2 hour layover for refueling. Then it's two weeks in Namibia and South Africa. In Windhoek, Namibia we'll stay and travel with Tim & Venessa and girls. Tim's over there doing research. So we're taking advantage of the opportunity. Internet access will be spotty, especially since I'm not taking a computer. Will post stuff as able. Otherwise, wait for all the pictures when we're back.

Home (for a little while)

We had an uneventful flight from Dallas to Portland. I like uneventful flights. 

On Wednesday we explored on our own. In Dallas we visited the Sixth Floor Museum, the site of the Kennedy assassination. Very interesting, informative, and emotional.  We then went over to Fort Worth to visit the Stockyards and see the twice daily Longhorn Cattle drive through town. Had lunch at Cattlemen's. Must have a good steak when you at the Stockyards (even if they're not active anymore). Next we visited downtown Fort Worth, called Sundance Square, with it's mixture of old and new. We finished the day with the Sernetts at a good local restaurant and had a rack of ribs. All the Texas food in one day!

At home, we're finishing preparations to go to Africa next Thursday.

Continuing Texas

San Antonio was again interesting. The Alamo, The Riverwalk, The Mercato. Then we drove up through the Hill Country and visited four wineries, Sister Creek, Becker, Grape Creek, and Texas Hills. Surprisingly good wines. We are now staying with our friends, the Sernetts, in Aubrey, north of Dallas. Toured the Horse Country today. Tomorrow we'll head into Dallas and Fort Worth to see the sites.