Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

16 October 2010

They say all good things come to an end, so our week in Puerto Vallarta was over. After breakfast, cleaning, and final packing, we called for our “inspection” of the room. With that taken care of, we headed to the lobby to check out. They had warned us it would be very crowded, but it wasn’t. We stored our luggage and headed out one more time, to the north toward the marina. It was too early and almost nothing was open and the sun was already hot. That led us to the Starbucks so we could check email and do a couple of other computer things in air conditioned space.

One last public transit bus ride took us back to Los Tules and the shopping center across the street. For lunch we went to Las Gorditas, making our last meal in PV the same place as our first one. Again, they were very good.

From the hotel, one more taxi ride to the airport got us on our way home. We had plenty of time, and picked up some snacks for the plane since there were no upgrades available

The flight to LA was smooth and uneventful. Since there is construction in the International Terminal at LAX, we had to take a bus from the plane to the terminal, a minor hassle. We had a long enough layover that there was no problem, and going through customs was the usual breeze.

The flight from LAX to PDX was also smooth and uneventful, as flights should be. It was raining lightly in LA when we left, and clear in Portland when we got here. After retrieving our luggage and a taxi ride home, another adventure was completed.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

15 October 2010

There was really nothing on the schedule for today, so it was once again a lazy morning. We headed for the pools. We’ve never spent so much time in swimming pools in a week before. It was relaxing and a little exercise.

After our last lunch in our room, we headed out for one more ride on the public transit to down town. Our goal was art galleries, with the possibility of adding to our Nativity collection. Stopping in a few stores, we did see some that were interesting, and not outrageously expensive. After wandering some more, even in the Mercado, where they all looked like they came from the same place, though hand painted, we stopped at Peyote People, a store that specializes in native art from indigenous peoples of Mexico.

We had shopped there when we were here on a cruise a few years ago, and had bought a couple of Huichol (we-chol) pieces. The proprietor even puts together Nativities from their work. This time, we bought a piece from the Tarahumara and from ______. They make good additions to our collection.

Since it was too early for dinner after our successful shopping, we wandered back to the Malecon, and stopped at Starbucks (in contrast to the native art). The restaurant we planned to go to didn’t open until 6. So about 6 we wandered up the hill to Arrayan, a relatively new restaurant with an open courtyard on the first floor. Once again, the food was excellent, and not touristy.

As we headed back to the main street to catch the bus, we noticed it was almost sunset. So we once again headed for the Malecon for one last PV sunset. It was a good one. Then we caught the bus out to our hotel. We arrived there in time for one more dip in the pool before packing for the trip home.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

14 October 2010

Today we were scheduled for a half-day city and jungle tour. Since our reservation had come from a time share presentation bonus, and not regular booking, the details were not clear. With the help of the concierge, we tracked down the right group, and joined a small tour, led by a man who had not taken us when he first saw our ticket. The evils of irregular scheduling!

This tour only had six people including us. We think there maybe were to be some more, but they didn’t show up for the bus.

The tour headed down town for a quick tour along the Malecon. At one point, a group of native dancers were doing a dance, which is swinging from a tall pole by their ankles, as another person plays a flute. They do this several times a day. I guess you have to see it, since it’s hard to describe.

From there we walked through the square to the cathedral, Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. After a several block walk, we came to a jewelry store, which is the sort of requisite stop for these things. They specialize in Mexican fire opals. Nice, but . . .

When it was time to continue the tour, we were sent to join another tour group, from another company, because our bus was having mechanical problems. At least that was the story. It may have just been more economical for them. With that group we headed south out of town for the jungle part of the tour, and a visit to a tequila factory. We drove several miles through the southern part of PV, past El Arcos and dozens of hotels. The highway turns from the coast and heads into the mountains, for the jungle part of the tour with no specific mention from the guide. But it was obviously that sort of vegetation.

Our next stop was the tequila factory, Las Juntas y Los Veranos in Cabo Correntes ,where we got a full explanatory tour of the process, and some serious tequila tasking. Of course, there was the opportunity to buy some. We bought a bottle of Dona Chanita Licor de Café, with a hint of chocolate.

Lunch was served at the restaurant at the factory, with a number of very good choices. We opted for the shrimps, prepared five different ways, all delicious. But no tequila with lunch.

On the way back into town, we stopped briefly at Chico’s, a restaurant on a river, where divers dive from the rocks into the rushing cataracts. The one we saw, did it blindfolded.

From there it was back into town. We were dropped off across the street from Los Tules. The bus continued to take the rest of the people back to their hotels. When we got off the bus, and it had pulled away, we realized we didn’t have the bottle of tequila we had bought. Fortunately, the concierge at Los Tules was able to contact the tour group, and they brought it back to us. As Dick had discussed with the concierge, miracles do happen.

That tour lasted considerably longer than we expected, so back at Los Tules, it was a quiet, relaxing evening.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

13 October 2010

This was an early morning, as we needed to be at the other side of the Marina to catch our tour to San Sebastian. This is a small sleepy village of about 600 inhabitants in the Sierra Madre mountains. We once again relied on the public bus line to get us there. Our only problem was we walked on the other side of the street from the Vallarta Adventures office, walked past it and had to find our way back. But we had plenty of time.

Our tour guide, Gustavo, regaled us with stories and good information for the entire 1½ hour trip up into the mountains. We passed from the coast, up through jungle, to a mixed pine forest at the top, nearly 6,000 feet in elevation.

At its height, San Sebastian had as many as 30,000 inhabitants working the silver and gold mines. As often happened, those played out and the town nearly disappeared. It has now actually started to grow again, but hopefully not too much or too fast.

Our fist stop was at an hacienda which is well preserved, and now is a small, three room hotel. The furnishings and décor are very interesting. Into town, the next stop was Café de Altura, a family coffee plantation, owned and operated by the Alvarado family for several generations, some of whom we met. Our tour of the plantation gave us a good introduction to the coffee growing and roasting process. This is truly mountain and shade grown organic coffee—always has been and always will be. We bought some coffee from the patriarch of the family.

We then walked further into the town to Comedor La Lupita, a family run restaurant. There was another tour group there, too, which filled the restaurant between us. In fact, we had to sit at a side table because there was not enough room at the main table for our group.

The meal was several courses of “home made” delicious food, starting with a quesadilla. We were then served rice and refried beans. The beans were not like any we had had before, and were very good, probably at least in part because they were made with lard, and not canola. A beef jerky taco and chicken mole, both of which were excellent, completed the meal.

During our meal, the family children came home from school, a good sign of its authenticity. During our lunch, we also were treated to a fairly strong thunderstorm. The rain continued as we left to tour the rest of the town

The next stop on the tour was the town square, with its shops around the edge, and the requisite band stand. We visited the old one cell jail behind the town hall. One of the oldest buildings on the square is now a hotel.

A short block away is the village church, San Sebastian, built in the 18^th century. We had a few minutes after that to continue to wander the town. Karen found a silversmith, and bought a pendant cross. Dick looked for some other art, but couldn’t find anything open with the right kind of art. (We’re still trying to augment the nativity set collection.)

The trip back to PV was uneventful down out of the mountains. We found a coffee shop at the marina, The Coffee Cup, and had a drink and checked email on Karen’s iPod. The public bus ride back to Los Tules completed a very good day.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

12 October 2010

Another lazy morning in PV! Sleep a bit late, a leisurely breakfast, reading overlooking the ocean, and a dip or two in the pool. Then a quiet lunch, another dip, and then got ready for the day’s adventure: The Rhythms of the Night.

We once again rode the city bus, this time out to the Marina. We had been told the boat left at 6:30, so we left in plenty of time to be there before six. It didn’t take long on the bus, even though we overshot the marina and had to walk back several blocks. And then found the tour didn’t actually leave till 7:00. But that’s better than being late or rushing too much.

The trip started with the boat ride south of town to Las Caletas, the former estate of John Huston, which still has no electric power lines to it. They do have electricity for their show, either from generators or batteries. All the other light is from torches and candles. The boat ride over included appetizers and an open bar, although the margaritas were fairly weak.

The show is a music and dance presentation based loosely on Aztec motifs. Lots of drums and lots of torches. It was a very interesting show.

After the show they served dinner, a buffet that included many choices: salads, vegetables, pastas, potatoes, and at least three types of meet, plus a dessert table. It was all quite good. This is an all-inclusive event, so there was also an open bar, or rather open bar service. That meant Dick could finish the meal with a good shot of tequila.

After a smooth boat ride back to the marina, we took a taxi back to Los Tules, shared with several others, as it was late enough that the busses were no longer running.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

11 October 2010

It was a lazy morning, as vacations should be. We took a walk to explore a bit more of the beach next to the resort, and took a morning swim after a breakfast of coffee and Mexican pastries. (You have to understand that “swim” is sort of a generic term for us.)

We then went local by taking the city bus to the old town area. That was an interesting experience, but well worth it and much cheaper fare than a taxi. By the time we got to Centro, it was getting pretty hot. So we walked on the shady side of the street when possible. We walked along the Malecon most of the way through the old city. Of course, there is much new here as well on this main drag, mostly catering to tourists and cruise ship passengers. But a block or two off is still very old Mexico looking.

We stopped at the Starbucks for an ice tea and free WiFi. Then headed back north past the cathedral toward our lunch/dinner destination. Unfortunately when we found it, they are only open for dinner. Maybe we’ll go back later in the week. So we went to Pipi’s, a Mexican restaurant with lots of recommendations. The fajitas were great, and the margaritas huge. It was a two-meal day.

After eating, we headed south again, across the river as far as Daiquiri Dick’s, where we had eaten when we were here on a cruise a few years ago. Did not eat this time, and then headed up along the river through the market area. Heading back toward Centro, we walked trough the Mercado and bought a set of margarita glasses. Our last stop was back a Starbucks for another ice tea, and a couple of PV mugs. We walked back along the Malecon, and then caught a bus back to Los Tules. Once again, we were the only gringos on the bus.

We took another pool dip, this time in a different pool at the resort. Dick again tried the surf briefly. From the pool we watched the sunset, until Dick ran back to the room to get a camera. We documented another beautiful sunset, as a relaxing finish to a good day.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

10 October 2010

This morning was our “free” breakfast and “tour.” We met the taxi across the street from Los Tules for the ride to the other place. We did get breakfast, which was quite good. However the tour and sales pitch took more time than we had planned (of course), and, in fact, we had to say “no” to four different people to get our promised premiums: a couple of local tours, and a bottle of tequila. And we came out with lots of practice at saying “no” to all the other salesmen we are meeting.

The rest of the day was very relaxing. We stayed at our resort except for another foray to go shopping at the same store as yesterday. It is sort of like an overgrown Fred Meyer one-stop shopping center, with groceries, clothing, household, appliances, and just about everything else you might need. (By the way, we did see a sign for the PV Costco in the airport, but will probably not get out there.)

Since our room is very close to one of the eight pools here, we did try it out. Dick even went to the beach, where the water was almost as warm as the pool, but with a much less smooth surface, of course. And since it’s on a bay, not much surf. The pools are a bit warmer and safer feeling.

An added bonus in the evening was a couple of brief sets of fireworks. We don’t know who set them off, or why, but we enjoyed them.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

9 October 2010

Today we got up very early to head to the airport for an early morning flight to LA, and then on to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. The flight from Portland to LA left about 6:30 AM, so we were out at the airport, by taxi, about 5:00. The good news is our Alaska Mileage MVP status got us a first-class upgrade for the first segment to LA. Unfortunately, the flight from LA to Puerto Vallarta was oversold, so no upgrades were available.

On the way from LA to PV (as they call it) we flew down the west coast, much of it in sight of the coastline. There was more farmland visible in Mexico than expected. But then I knew much produce sold in the States comes from Mexico. We landed in PV on time (or maybe a little early), and had no trouble going through immigration and customs. Another visa stamp in the passports.

Our plan had been to walk out of the airport, go across the street, and get a cab to the resort, Los Tules. However, we were told someone from Los Tules was there, and would get us a cab to the resort. It turns out it was a time-share deal we had been warned to avoid, but by then it was too late. They did pay for the cab to Los Tules, after we agreed to a “free” breakfast and other goodies for sitting through a “brief” presentation about another resort. At least they did pay for our taxi rides.

After we settled in to our room for the week at Los Tules, we walked across the highway to a shopping center for dinner in a recommended small place, and some groceries. The place made gorditas, small split tortillas filled with all sorts of things. They were very good. And grocery shopping was a bit of an adventure: everything was in Spanish and Pesos. But we did OK.

Fairmont Hot Springs, British Columbia, Canada

We spent a week in Canada, with our "home base" a condo at Fairmont Hot Springs, BC.

We left on Saturday, 18 September, driving as far as Sandpoint, ID. It was a fairly straight shot, up the Gorge, over to Spokane, and up Highway 2 to Sandpoint. That's a fairly long drive, but OK. Sunday morning we went to church at Christ Our Redeemer Lutheran Church. Karen had visited the preschool there.

Since the weather was not great, we headed out on our way up to Fairmont. We had planned to stop for lunch on the way, probably in Cranbrook, BC. However on the way up, we were stopped by a very serious accident, and sat on the highway for about 3 1/2 hours. When we got past the accident site, the back-up going south was about 3 miles long. I'm sure our side was, too. That made us late enough that we didn't think about stopping for lunch on the way, and arrived at Fairmont Hot Springs after 5 PM.

We checked in and found our condo, in the newest building, overlooking the golf course with the Columbia River running by the fairways, and with a view of the nearby ridge of the Rocky Mountains. It was a very nice home for the week.

We went into the "town" of Fairmont Hot Springs for dinner and groceries, and then enjoyed the rest of a quiet evening in our home for the week.

When we checked the weather forecasts, it seemed Wednesday would be the best day to go up to Banff National Park. So Monday and Tuesday we stayed fairly close. We went north to Invermeere, found a bank with a useable ATM, wandered the streets, and had a coffee. When we were finishing our coffee, Karen noticed a very large rainbow against the hills, very low down. We went out, and found a spot we could drive to where we could see the whole thing. It was the largest (widest) rainbow I had ever seen, with bright colors. It was even a double for a while. The rain never reached us, the the rainbow was incredibly beautiful.

Tuesday was another lazy day of exploring the area. We walked to the village, and saw some deer on the way. They didn't run, being rather used to humans. That evening we went to the hot springs for which the town is named. This is a swimming pool style hot spring, but felt very good. It was very hot at the inlet, and cooler by the edges away from the center.

Wednesday was the day that looked best for going up to Banff. It was quite cloudy when we left and drove through Kootenay National Park. On the way through the park, we stopped at Kootenay Crossing (on the Kootenay River), Vermillion Crossing (over the Vermillion River, aptly named), Numa Falls (also on the Vermillion River), and Marble Canyon (an incredible very narrow and very deep chasm with a creek running through it, falling from a fairly flat valley at its head).

We crossed the Continental Divide at Vermillion Pass into Banff National Park. The clouds were beginning to break up as we drove Highway 1 to the town of Banff. By the time we got there, it was mostly clear and sunny, and the mountains were gorgeous. After wandering the main street, buying mugs at Starbucks and chocolates at Rodgers, we headed northwest toward Lake Louise and Moraine Lake.

Since there was construction on Highway 1, we took the scenic route, Alt 1. This goes by the base of Castle Mountain and along the Bow River, with great views. When we reached Lake Louise, we found it hard to find a parking place. All of Calgary must have thought this was the last good weather of fall, and showed up, along with many Japanese tourists. The lake is as beautiful as ever, even with less than ideal lighting, since we were already at mid afternoon.

The drive up to Moraine Lake, one of our favorite places in the world, was far from traffic free. We were able to find a parking place in the lot. Our first photo op was at the head of the lake, with the Valley of the Ten Peaks rising behind the lake. We then climbed the "moraine" for more great views. Since we had last been there 39 years ago, they have build a regular trail to the top of the rock pile for great views of the lake and the valley. Some people were till simply climbing the boulders to get to the top. Many minutes were spent up there enjoying the view, even if the light was not perfect that late in the day.

On the way back "home", we stopped again at Lake Louise for dinner, splurging a bit and eating in the Chateau Lake Louise (the less expensive bar, not the Dining Room). What a beautiful scene to have from you dining table!

The drive home retraced our path through Kootenay, with mountain tops now showing in the setting sun. We stopped at Radium Hot Springs for a nice soak. The pool there is smaller than Fairmont, and at the base of a cliff, so it seems a bit more natural.

Thursday, we stayed closer to home. Having heard about a "natural" hot spring in a nearby Provincial park, we headed south past Canal Flats to a gravel/dirt road leading into the mountains to Whiteswan Lake Provincial Park. 17 1/2 Km up this road is Lussier Hot Springs at the edge of the Lussier River. On the way we saw a mother black bear and her two cubs cross the road in front of us. Most of the way the road is a normal unpaved mountain road. However, the last three Km to the springs are narrower and on the side of a very steep mountainside, down a long way to the river below. Fortunately, it was not as bad as the government warnings made it seem, and we met no log or mining trucks.

From the parking on the road, there is a trail to the springs at the river's edge. They bubble out of the base of the cliff next to the river, where three rock pools have been formed. They get progressively cooler toward the river, and many people go from the pools for a dip in the river. We resisted that temptation, although Dick did get into the cool pool next to the river. When we arrived there were three ladies there who were about to leave. After we had been in the pool for a bit, people began arriving, and it actually got a bit crowded. Natural hot springs are in many ways much nicer than the big swimming pool style.

From there we drove to Canal Flats to the source of the Columbia River. It is a series of springs above Columbia Lake, which flow a few hundred yards to form the lake. Apparently, their source is underground seepage from the Kootenay River on the other side of a ridge and a little higher. It's amazing to think those small, bubbling pools eventually become the mighty river that flows into the Pacific Ocean at Astoria. The stream really begins to flow on the other end of Columbia Lake, where it is a small river meandering through the Columbia Valley.

Friday was also a day staying close. We drove back toward Columbia Lake to the Hoodoos, a fascinating series of sand formations along the cliff. They are in a nature preserve, and the trail signs are less than perfect, so we turned the wrong way first and only saw some very small examples. When we retraced our route and got on the right trail, it led to some amazing views and formations. These will certainly change and be different if we go back to them in the future as water and wind erosion must reform them regularly.

Saturday was predicted to be another good day in Banff, so we headed out fairly early to get to Moraine Lake with the light right. Arriving about 10 AM, the light was about perfect on the mountains, however the lake was not as bright blue as before because the sunlight was not on the lake yet. We once again climbed the rockslide for the best views of the lake and the mountains. There we talked with a professional photographer from Calgary, who gave us some good tips. It was hard to pull ourselves away, but we did want to get to Lake Louise in good light as well.

Driving down the road from the lake, cars were parked along the side of the road for about a mile, making it hard at times to pass, especially with service trucks coming up. It made us very glad we had come early! When we got to Lake Louise, the parking lots were not all full yet. We walked to the lake and spent more time simply enjoying the view (and taking more pictures!). Lunch was in the village of Lake Louise, not nearly as crowded as the lake area.

From there we returned to Highway 1, heading west over the pass into Yoho National Park. We had had the goal of Takakkaw Falls, and our conversation with the photographer at Moraine Lake added Emerald Lake to the itinerary. Our last trip to Takakkaw Falls 39 years before had been over a gravel road. It's now paved, and more people have found it. And it's still as beautiful as ever, falling about 1200 feet down the cliff. The trail takes you to its base with great views.

By the time we got to Emerald Lake, it was a little late for the best color light on the lake. But it was still beautiful. I'm not sure why we hadn't stopped there on other trips through here. We walked part of the way around, and once again had a hard time leaving such beauty.

Continuing west on the Trans Canada Highway, we drove to Golden, BC where we found a nice restaurant for dinner. Then it was south along the Columbia River (only visible some times) on the west side of the main Rocky Mountain ridge, back to Radium Hot Springs, completing a wonderful loop. The drive from there back to our condo at Fairmont had become familiar by then.

Sunday was an even longer day's drive than our trip up from Portland to Sandpoint. We drove all the way across BC to near Abbotsford, and then crossed into Washington on our way to Bellingham. On Monday, we visited with Tom & Cheryl Wolbrecht in Bellingham, before driving to Tacoma to stay the night with Tim & Venessa and family. Visiting was great.

Tuesday morning we celebrated Lillian's 4th birthday a week early, by taking her family out to breakfast at Hob Nob. Then we took her shopping for an outfit at Gymboree. It was also her first day of PreSchool, so we stayed with Logan as Venessa was helping in the classroom. Logan joined us in meeting Matt and Jen for lunch. After school we had a coffee date with Venessa and the kids before we headed home.